With a leak, you will smell the coolant and possibly see some steam. ![]() Some cars have a water-cooled manifold, so it’s prone to leaking, especially if the gasket fails. The intake manifold is responsible for distributing the air to the cylinders. If you leave it unrepaired, you could cause serious engine damage. ![]() When this happens, the engine starts to overheat. This typically only occurs because the seal is old and worn out. Leaking Thermostat HousingĬoolant leaks commonly occur around the thermostat housing because the seal cracks. Additionally, you may hear a lower groaning sound coming from the pump before it fails. Along with a leak, you may notice some other symptoms.įor starters, without the right amount of coolant circulating through the system, the engine can overheat. ![]() When the water pump gets old, it can fail. The car’s water pump is responsible for circulating coolant from the radiator to the engine block and back again. As with a leaking hose, you want to fix this problem sooner than later before the clamp gives out completely. These clamps can come in multiple forms, sometimes spring clamps are used, while other vehicles use wire clamps or screw and band clamps.Įither way, when the clamp wears out, the hose is going to leak. Loose Or Weak Radiator Hose ClampĬlamps are responsible for holding the radiator hoses in place. RELATED: Coolant Leaking From Hose – Causes & Fixes 2. If you don’t fix it right away, the hose can blow, leaving your engine without coolant and causing major problems. After many years of use, the rubber hoses are going to crack and break.Īt first, you may see a hose seeping a small amount of fluid. While this material is resistant to heat, chemicals and hot water, they aren’t immune to damage. These hoses are made from ethylene propylene (EPDM) in most cases. They are molded into specific curves to fit the space under the hood. Radiator hoses are needed to transport coolant. Some of these issues aren’t a big deal and can be easily repaired, while others indicate a serious problem. Leaks can also be caused by a bad thermostat housing, a worn intake manifold gasket, a bad heater core, a damaged radiator or cap, or a blown head gasket. Some of the most common reasons to see coolant under the car are a leaking radiator hose, a bad water pump or a loose radiator hose clamp. Or the Zionsville is a direct drop-in.Conclusion Common Reasons For A Coolant Leak The custom build cost me approximately $200 for the OBX radiator + $35 for the aluminum tube stock. Mishimoto told them all it will fit the non-M. Almost every online vendor is misinformed about Mishimoto's radiator. Mishimoto's only fits the M3, and the necks are welded on backwards anyway! Mishimoto told me their entire stock has the problem, and they have no solution. I'm the one who posted the review of Mishimoto's attempt (and failure) here: The OBX radiator is the ONLY alternative to the Zionsville at the moment. It is installed and running now, with no problems. The recess machined into the back allows the new neck to slip onto the cut-off OBX stub for fixture-free welding. The o-ring seats in about the middle of the smaller OD neck flat, just as with the OE neck. The groove secures the quick-clip, the chamfer centers the fitting on the neck and stops its travel at the correct place, and the radius cut on the end spreads the o-ring for easy install/uninstall. ![]() In case Mizu does not cooperate, does anyone know of a cost effective aluminum radiator for the non-M?Īs you can see above, fewer features are necessary in the necks than are molded into the OE plastic. While we wait on what Mizu is going to do I will use my OEM radiator. I know, you get what you paid for and it was the cheapest of the three. We then discovered today that the replacement (along with the 1st one) has a manufacturing error on it - both hose connectors are welded on backwards so that the angled bevel up to the clip circle is facing the radiator not the hose. Next, I ordered a Mizu radiator (actually the cheapest one so far), it came in damaged so a replacement was ordered. Then I inquired about a Mishimoto radiator and found that they are in the prototype stage for the non-M version. I started by ordering a PWR radiator only to be told a week later that PWR has stopped bringing in this particular radiator. Since I have an automatic transmission I also opted for a bigger transmission oil cooler thus I would only need a manual transmission version radiator. I will post this in the drivetrain section as well because non FI people will also be interested.Īs part of my AA/2 installation I wanted to get away from the OEM radiator with its plastic end tanks and go to an aluminum radiator.
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